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ardReveil v4Last update: Sat Jan 10 23:04:53 2026
Why why why oh why ? No ultimate good reasons but a list of "because":
So, it will be like that :
TechnicalDriving the voltmeter Ooooh Japan cheap 100JPY ("hyaku-en") shop, I love you. Found some cheap battery tester with a voltmeter. You have to brutally open the voltmeter (at 1 USD it's not made to be serviced) and extract the interresting part. Then you must drive the voltmeter,
In fact the voltmeter are easy to drive with a 1kOhm in serial and PWM. No algorithm inside, I made just a simple measurements and stored in the EEPROM the calibrated values for each hours or 10's minutes. I'd do a simple ratio for minutes. My only concern is that the voltmeter I got now are using a spring to push the arrow back to zero (and therefore subject to stress and losing it strength), whereas previous I bought a few months ago where using a magnet. Let's see, but I forecast that periodic re-calibration will be necessary. Draw the voltmeterWith Inkscape, a shot of the original one, precise mesuring and a little time, you can have good results.Source SVG file : voltmeter-scale-time12.svg Lights The clock will have a few fake tube (real dead vacuum tubes with a led at the bottom), but it will be fixed. There will be also some changing lights:
This will be powered by a ATtiny10, an extra small micro controller of barely 3mm x 3mm. This was just a pretext to practice with this little IC, and seeing the limited number of pins, blinking led is what I'll use it for (though some people put USB stack on it ...!). Code is here at Google code, in the project ArdReveil4Effects. Points of interrest:
![]() %20-\/-%20
Flame PB0 |o | PB3
GND | | VCC
Led pin PB1 |____| PB2 Led pin
CodeAll the code for the main MCU (Atmegaxx8) is in the Google source control (you can pick the tag ARDREVEIL4_VOLTMETER_20141207)Things to know:
Points of interrest in the code:
Pictures![]() The enclosure in preparation: a piece of wood at the bottom, the top is the aluminium shielding of a big power circuit of a thing I attempted (but failed) to repair, you see also a tube that will be plugged in the stuff, as well as one of the voltmeter. The thin steel pipe is the body of my former iron, and I always knew I could reuse this baby for design ... just wait, you'll see. ![]() First holes for the voltmeters and the chimney (you'll see) ![]() Just a quick preview of what it will look like. Still need to make the hole for the tube. ![]() Attiny10 part done and wired inside the aluminium shielding ![]() Nearly finished, need a couple more leds and plug in the voltmeters for real ![]() Finished product. Managed to take the picture with the angle of the protective plastic cover just right on the figures (sigh... oh well). ![]() The insides of the beast: on the left a atmega328 on its WordClock v1.0 board DocumentationsI hate those guys
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